Brett has called it an EE width in the past, I don't think its much wider than the 2030 at the ball where it matters most, but the heel is extra wide and the toe box doesn't taper as much so there's more toe room as well. Im a student in Sweden and I have worn a couple of the brands mentioned in the article (and in the comment section) during the last couple of years. The instep is high, but massive on the service boot pattern. Ive just received an email from Herring Shoes announcing that Church Shoes Ltd have decided to increase their prices to reposition their brand at a higher price point. The point about corrected Vs full grain leathers is not a meaningful distinction. Worth asking. Heel is kind of big for an oxford shoe it turns out, stick to a boot for this last. I wear chup socks with all of my shoes and boots these days, but for some of these I wore Darn Tough crew light or Darn Tough cushioned boot socks. So on the making you get all closed channels, you get all leatherboard or even leather heel stiffeners, you get a rounded side on the heel on both inside and outside, a slightly bevelled waist etc. If youre better of with 2 pairs of JC than 1 pair of JL is another question. How to measure your feet. F. E. F. Extra-wide. And in pictures I can see a difference in appearance, at least in terms of shape and design, but I am not sure if there is much of a difference elsewhere (I get that bespoke and such will fit nicer). Meermin shoes are classy shoes that are just so unbelievably functional and cost-effective for the price that they come for. 3. My right foot always had some heel slip even with the laces pulled very tight and a tongue pad. To be clear, I dont know what they use. These classy are built for the ultimate style, comfort, functionality, and elegance of the elite. The quality of the leather isnt as good as Crockett and Jones, but is far superior to my Barker and Loake shoes. Wolverine 1000 mile 9D: Gusseted tongue made the break in a little hard at first, overall a bit narrow and snug in the waist, but a very comfortable fit when broken in. Also Barkers at the 1880 price point are made in the UK. if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[250,250],'footslide_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_6',108,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-footslide_com-medrectangle-4-0');The top-grade Shell Cordovan Leather material used to make Carmina shoes is surely one of the best in the world for dress shoes. These shoes have seen some heavy use and have been worn at least twice as much as the previous pair. Thats interesting. I've been told that the forest last is the only one available in a wide, but only in mto. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Overall, Meermin shoes are great shoes, but they appear to be poorly finished when compared to Carminas. Giro bike shoes: 45.5 EU - Great fit. I'm looking at a cobbler union in a 312 last they recommended 1.5 down from brannock. Rancourt 114 9D: Great fit sometimes. Please check Rafal's thread and patronize a true custom maker. Foster & Son get this so much better with their RTW. Carmina Simpson 8.5UK: Tried for oxfords but had to return, instep was too low for closed lacing. As of late, I found that the cost differential between Crockett & Jones and Carmina has become more significant. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Above all of these. I have not personally verified it since, but I believe that I am at the mid-to-upper end of 10.5 based on other fits. Theyre both very big brands now.. I wear 9EE in AE (65 last) and want to try carminas. Apart from the differences in material qualities, a major difference between Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes is the price tags that these shoes are sold and distributed for. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. p.s. spoo -- great thread idea (I'll soon add my info ). A very nice pair of black cap toes on the Eton last but far to hard to break in. Its a standard Goodyear shoe, with no fuss. Im not sure what you have to back up that this wouldnt be the case? I have not found any better service than that provided by the C&J shops in Jermyn Street (and actually at the factory shop on the one occasion I managed to visit). Very hard to break in and stiff leathers. Why spend 400 retail when you can get a great pair of shoes for half that? if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[580,400],'footslide_com-medrectangle-3','ezslot_13',107,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-footslide_com-medrectangle-3-0');Let us see what Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes look like at first glance: One of the most elegant shoes out there today is the Carmina shoes. Some can only be purchased at high upcharge compared to what they cost in Europe, while some can be bought from European retailers with free shipping, VAT deducted and no customs charge (as long as below $800) so they come out 15-20% cheaper than they cost in Europe. Thing is that, not referring to Berluti necessarily now, but we do see a number of very famous bespoke shoemakers, not least in England, who the past years have started to put out shoes that arent properly made and/or have a proper fit. Jason: Thats a real shame. In terms of value I would say CJ handgrade. * **Thomas George Popes** 7.5UK quite snug, grips heel well but pinches the toes a bit. Myrqvist, which we mentioned at the start, is one of these and uses fairly good raw materials - sourced from well-known tanneries like Du Puy in France. They have done a small amount of RTW for a while, its just enlarged recently. I had the hope it would get softer and stretch a bit. Should fit most people TTS. Because the level is higher, and also because I wasnt that impressed with Myrqvist either, personally. Is it enough to justify the extra 75 quid per pair? The upper leather is stiff and prone to hard creases, but also a little thinner than other brands on this list which helps with comfort. Even with a tongue pad, facings fully come together throughout the instep. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. For a RTW offering, without additional charge, that is a massive advantage for anyone wary of shelling out for MTM alternatives, and I would have expected something worth telling readers. My understanding is that AE is below the likes of Crocketts in terms of make, but thats based on the input of people like Jesper who know more about them than I do. Alden Barrie (lined shell): 10D, a little snug at the big toe but great in the ball and very supportive overall. Simon wrote that it is expensive to add an extra width across all shoes. Nice article , but why the article call these cheap shoes? Thanks for the personal comment it is very helpful and interesting, Any thoughts about the German brand Hammerstein? 6.5D Carmina: 5.5: UK: Forest, Robert - 5.5UK: 6.5D Carmina Forest: 5.5: UK: 5.5UK with a smidge of heel slip: Barrie 9.5D: Bad fit. Either as a good value buy for one who is unwilling or unable spend more, or, as a gateway purchase into the world of fine mens shoes. Allen Edmonds is perhaps most similar to Loake or Barker. Sometimes they run big and sometimes they run small. Its just not possible.. Not having a physical shop makes a small difference, as does not selling wholesale or using an agent, but that doesnt translate to a shoe thats twice the quality. Hi Simon, do you know if JM Westons shoes are at a similar level to Crockett&Jones Handgrade? Career and job listings in fashion, mens clothing, Reviews of Classifieds and classifieds sellers, No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread (a.k.a. Sizing down 1 from your HTT could be tricky. C&J do not run their own shops. I agree they provide an excellent service and are great ambassadors for the brand, which is why I think it is clever of them as a company not to be involved in the complexity of rents, leases, employees etc. They look good, a bit more fashionable than the others, but I also cant say Ive worn them enough to really get a sense of their quality. Trickers 4497s: 8.5 is a little too short, while 9 feels too big in most pairs. Luckily it did a tiny bit making it bearable, but damn they are still uncomforable I have to admit. I wonder how much more comfortable it would be. Alden Aberdeen: 9.5E fits me really well with medium socks. G&G also have exceptional service in the store. We start at the top end of that market, and then gradually work our way down. I have had a painted patina on several shoes see Berluti here, Dandy here, Carreducker here and G&G here. "Another area where a lot of the English makers fall down, at this price level and below, is the soles, which aren't as good as Spanish brands in general. In that regard, let me plug TLB as a particularly sound value proposition. Toe box is comfortable but not a lot of play, heel is well locked in. MP/Barrie 9.5E: Excellent fit right out of the box with thick or thin socks. Second is a Loake 1880 snuff suede apron derby boot. When weve returned to normal I might need a trip to Spain to try on a selection from Carmina, Meermin and the other brands suggested in this article. . Still being worn with same sock thickness as the other Parkhurst last. Carminas Quality Control is definitely another trait that makes these shoes better than Meermin shoes. Barker has indeed several models in corrected grain, you find them under hi-shine on their own website. JavaScript is disabled. Cheers, H. While I havent worn Prada or Ferragamo, I can be quite certain that they will be worse value for money than those mentioned here. Below that, there are smaller differences created by new entrants to the market. Still a well-made shoe, but too much spent on marketing and retail. The arch is prominent, not as much as the White's Archease. The subreddit about quality footwear. Switching to thin socks gives a very relaxed fit. Interesting to hear you sized up for Simpson when based on your description above you Could probably have stayed on an 8. To me, they have been 100% worth the money. Indeed the leather is really stiff. #EasyLifeESMenBoots #DopeBoots #Meermin #CarminaBoots #ShellCordovanBoots #EasyLifeES #CasualMenBoots #MereminPlumMuseumCalf #Meerminbelts---ALL UB playlist-. I would also include Lof & Tung on this list its Skoaktiebolagets house brand (though I havent seen any in person), and their customer service is excellent too. But I am not a US citizen, at least no chauvinism involved. **Notes about feet:** Left foot pretty much bang on 9D, right foot maybe 9.25D. Gaziano & Girling MH71: UK 11.5 F. Gaziano & Girling GG06: UK 11.5 F. Gaziano & Girling KN14: UK 11.5 F. Gaziano & Girling DG70: UK 11.5 F. Gaziano . Loake Jockey last (G-Fit): 7UK fits but a bit roomy on chelsea boots. From my personal experience, there has been a decline in quality in inverse proportion to price increases. Id not have worn them in wet conditions though. Do you think that this pair are too smart: https://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/products/berwick-1707-penny-loafer-9628-dark-brown-suede?variant=19309209288766&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5ZCblaOs6gIVdBPTCh32aAttEAEYASABEgKcGvD_BwE, Would this pair be better suited: https://www.carminashoemaker.com/penny-loafers-brown-suede-80113. To me, the leather feels similar to Carmina, though possibly even stiffer and more inflexible. Also, the chunky sole and derby construction arent that suited to suits. Not a thick sock last. I am just wondering if there is anything else I am missing. Fast worldwide deliveries; 14 day returns; . There might be a wide heel seat, for example, but then even some expensive English shoes like John Lobb have that.. Berwick uses corrected grain for some of its models (this is what stopped me from buying a pair). Press J to jump to the feed. Allen Edmonds still made really good shoes twenty years ago, but their attempt at becoming an all around clothing brand with its own shops really harmed the quality of the shoes. This means that in our Goodyear welted shoes you are likely to go down 0,5 size compared to what you wear in Meermin Hiro. But if the heel is good to start with, it doesnt matter so much if it can flex and adapt. An interesting read. The only major disadvantage compared to Goodyear is that the stitches come through on the inside of the shoe. Predictably, this European company uses European sizing, which is normally a full size down from your Brannock (or "true") size. **The older 2040s are tighter, because of the older style of heel pad, if you find it too tight I recommend considering swapping out the heel pads. Carmina Forest Oxford and Blucher - 9.5 UK. I just purchased them and they are in transit from Sweden. Our builds will give about .25 size in the long run, on average. Ive mostly moved to bespoke now due to my weird feet, but I do own a pair of Morjas suede chukkas that I use in bad weather. I would instead recommend taking this last TTS and just wearing thick socks as sometimes it can run small. Truman P-79 9D: Nice fit. Now fits comfortably after a substantial break in. In fact at some point I wondered whether you were being protectionist of Northampton makers by apparently shunning AE, but then I could not see anywhere else that could be like you. Does anyone know if English makers tend to have wider heels than their Spanish (or other continental counterparts). I think either would be fine. I have to say that influencers, like Andreas Weinas, who keep plugging those kinds of brands using superlative language bear some of the responsibility for misleading people. Its why Ive avoided buying from them. While I like the imperial range, I disagree that Cheaney are at a similar level to C&J; even to my untrained eye the upper leather doesnt seem comparable (scuffs more easily) and is thinner. Morjas, and the other Swedish brands Myrqvist and Skolyx, all use leather board heel stiffeners. Carmina Shoes - Definitive Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc) - official thread. They are never mentioning it, but the leather is bookbinded. The high end, aspirational item is necessary too and will always be a hallmark of your site, but I believe you have wisely corrected a too marked journey into luxury where many less of us could have followed. I wrote an article about it many years ago on the Swedish version of Shoegazing (before English was launched) which, to summarise, had the conclusion that its down to vanity. I'll update this list as I get new stuff in too. Ive found one Cheaney last with a wide toe box that works for me by sizing down so that the heel fits but very little success with other makers. Its a bit funny though that you state I do arbitrary claims, when you yourself lift the examples you do, without backing it up with anything. With that said, the number of good bespoke shoemakers that will make sure to both deliver good fitting and very well-made shoes is still very high in the world. The price range for Meermin loafers is $165 for women and $175 for men. Tried an 8.5E on a 2014 manufactured pair and its better than the modern ones, but the taper is a bit more aggressive so I'd prefer a 9 in much older or "OG" 2030. ), but perhaps that wouldnt be entirely appropriate. If I may add to this discussion, i recently purchased a pair of burgundy penny loafers from morjas. Have been on a Brannock only once. Particularly I struggle with the heel which I find very wide with most English makers. But Carmina say they dont use them even though Jesper was told they do. Besides, one isnt going to do something athletic in dress shoes so a relatively poor fit is not noticed most of the time. Additional notes: Heel-to-toe is 10, width on the border of D/E; heel-to-ball is 11. While I have no problem wearing RTW tailoring that is cheap relative to the bespoke stuff you discuss on the website, with shoes I found it impossible to go back to cheaper brands once I got my first EGs. Finally, this last is fairly conservative, with less sleek lines than the C&J, Carmina, Weston, etc. Meermins can be bought at prices between $160 and $210 in the online and offline marketplaces today. Alden Van (unlined shell): 10D, ended up selling before fully breaking in. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Common Projects Achilles and Bball: 43 are some of my best fitting shoes, especially the Bballs that have a little more toe room. Comfortable out of the box and have continued to be excellent. And they are one of the very few brands offering something for the ladies. These would be an excellent fit if the toe box was a bit wider. Note: I have pretty weird feet, slim waist, slim heels, slightly high instep, and low volume. Best fitting shoe I own, after a couple wears I can sport these for 20 miles with no hotspots. does not really mean quality will be consistent. 1757 last 10D: Great roomy fit as I recall from trying in a store over a year ago. Viberg 2050 9: The E width of this last is still unreleased, but its what I would likely do for another pair in this last. This is more important for those that dont find heels fit them well, generally. These are sockless only. Finally, its worth noting that they have a very robust MTO program where customers can customize lasts and detailing, and they also use a lot of crust calf, where other makers on this list (besides possibly the Asian ones) only use aniline. !!! Note: this is for the old China models. 511 last 10D: Bad fit. Though, unsure of sizing, thanks. The heel stiffener is a piece of the internal structure of the shoe, which sits inside the heel cup. I'd probably be good with a 10E. Wesco MP1339 9E: It's alright, toe box is really low and the gusset take up volume running the whole way up the boot as it is fully gusseted. I appreciate that there are differences, I just care more about some differences than others. For reference, previous sizing threads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 for extra data points. TLB is from Mallorca, like Carmina, but is only a few years old and is trying to gain a similar reputation. Cobbler Union (above) is a newer brand, and more similar to TLB or Carmina, while Spier & MacKay is a clothing brand with a line of shoes at 220 which is decent for the price. But there is also some variation in what you get. Among the many pairs I tried a pair of color 8 CXL beefrolls were the best fitting. Customers cant stop talking about Carminas. Unfortunately I can only confirm that. Also Berwick, Yanko and others. I have a pair of Berwick chukkas and theyre pretty decent but they also dont feel as good to wear as the AEs (personally I wish Id spent more money on a higher quality make, but the store was out of C&J chukkas at the time). Does that refer to leather- or rubber ones? Parkhurst 9D: Great fit. **** Viberg Bobcats and Derby Shoes fit a bit larger in the same last compared to a service boot. Create an account to follow your favorite communities and start taking part in conversations. Now, Id probably look at a boot like the Conniston or Islay. Aha, I see. Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. There are many levels at tanneries, and cheaper brands dont get the same quality or the first selection. She tried Orbans but they were stiff as hell. and maybe as far as a 37 in the Tanino, though that is a very rare size. No one see this though, its only for yourself. As someone who has purchased a few of these brands, I found this article to be very interesting and accurate. I have gone through years of posts comments where US readers often praised the company and you alleged unawareness about it, sometimes citing Alden as the only US quality shoemaker known to you. Morjas is similar in having a cleaner make, and is a touch more expensive than the other two. Its the same width as the 8.5E, but just a smidge longer and is perfect. Meermin Hiro: 10D (9UK), I can walk miles in these in thin/medium socks but would strongly prefer more toe room. I did have a little heel slip in the beginning that went away. If you have never tried or heard of it, is it a company you would try in the future? No idea what size I'd need to make this last work but I'd guess something like 9.5EE. I have to say from personal experience I found Berwick to be the most incredible value. Not least their finer ranges are really nice IMO. I'm trying to suss out sizing for several models: I don't know if I can help, but I will give it a go - do bear in mind, of course, that everyone's feet are different. I have this problem as well. It is a smidge shorter than 2030, but that's due to the lack of taper. Doc Martens or Loake 1880 for Chelsea boots ? Parkhurst 18 Last 9D: Too narrow, should have gone TTS. Think Ill grab a pair of black calf Trickers first, then see how I go. They last forever, but unfortunately they are even stiffer than Meermin shoes (really didnt like those), and take a year or two to wear in. Not sure why this is the case. Meermins are not bad fits though; these shoes are flexible and stretchable enough to blend with your feet measurements accurately once you get the right sizing. They look nice but if I know Ill be in shoes the entire day and might walk a bit I do not wear them. Its a helpful round up, especially since I find this price bracket to be a sweet spot for my own purposes. Thank you for this listing Simon. I bought a pair of suede oxfords some months ago and I have found them to be fairly good for their cost. Im really tempted to name and praise (as opposed to name and shame! And you could choose a more rounded last, if that was your preference. ", Spain 1: TLB, Yanko, Septieme Largeur and Andres Sendra. Way too narrow and painful all around, last too tapered for my taste. Carmina shoes are made with classy Shell Cordovan Leather that is really elegant and unique. When I complained I was told The second pair is always better ! Meermin: I own a pair of unlined Chelsea boots in the softcalf leather and I have handled and tried on a paid of loafers in the same leather. Yes literally hard as rock but very nice looking in their box.. Agree Alan, buyer beware that they are extremely hard to break in. With Carmina you can get a more refined shoe - closed-channel stitching, a more bevelled waist and so on. @ Matty, if your initial post was relatively friendly and good natured Im sure you would have gotten a similar reply. On the raw materials, you get oak-bark tanned soles, you get the top level of upper, and so on. The EG just feel better than both ever did straight out of the box, but Im not sure how psychological that is! It's been a while, but I didn't have any complaints after break in. So far I remained unconvinced but then again I dont know any better. HOK 8.5: Bad fit. I'll only really be taking 2030 in 8.5 for 2017-2020 made pairs. The shoe comes on Meermin's Ama last, which is of a classic and elegant shape. The main concern for me is finding a last shape that fits my high instep and once I find that last I stick with it. Many people have fallen in love with the Carminas because of how good-looking they are. Im thinking of trying something different and the George Cleverley Ready to Wear line has a whole cut I particularly like the look of. Are morjas using leather or plastic heel stiffeners? The question there is how long such value lasts, when the company grows or takes on new costs. Would these look good suits ( navy/grey) and trousers ) blues/grey/green/white etc.) I would also add that instead of trying to prove potential readers wrong, you might accept criticism gracefully and might have more success by doing more research and improving your writing. I will look for a similar style shoe latest next year. Thanks a lot Simon. After further research I stand by my words. Similar articles on suits, jackets, shirts etc are desperately needed. 65 last 10D: Bad fit. Well done for covering affordable RTW brands instead of bespoke that few will be able to consider. They are extremely comfortable and very good value in my opinion. Fit seemed good at first but toe box is just too narrow for extended wear. Skolyx is easily the best budget tier brand I have come across. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Id love to step up to Crocketts as Ive heard great things. For what its worth Joshua, (with plenty of experience of both) I wouldnt necessarily consider C&J a step up from Trickers. Made in Spain. And sorry for the long post, whenever I come across such I wonder whether the guy is a bit insane, but then, passion, what? Thanks Robin. I dont think either has changed in their quality, no. It is tough to find quality hand-welted shoes for the price that Meermin shoes are being sold for. Carmina vs Meermin: First glance Do you think a knowledgeable observer like yourself could tell the difference in leather quality when they are being worn on someone elses feet (can you spot the difference in leather quality between CJ and EG when someone else is wearing them and your eyes are 6 plus feet away)? If I could make a bespoke last from these shoes I would. For each last, add any thoughts on fit, including ankle/shaft fit for boots. Edward Green)? I usually just buy shoes in the 500 range when they go on sale for 200-300, but in the 300 range I really like the Austrian manufacturer Handmacher; they make shoes on traditionally boxy Viennese lasts, and they use tiny wooden nails to connect the soles to the uppers. Travel Shoes Poll: What shoes do you bring with you on short trips? After break in D/E ; heel-to-ball is 11 a lot of play, heel is well in... This so much better with their RTW prominent, not as much as the other Parkhurst.. 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From your HTT could be tricky brand Hammerstein the mid-to-upper end of 10.5 based on your above. S Ama last, if that was your preference oxfords some months ago and have. Less sleek lines than the c & J, Carmina, Weston,.! On their own website 'll update this list as I get new stuff in too style, comfort functionality. On short trips that regard, let me plug TLB as a 37 in the,! Jl is another question extra data points I get new stuff in too while, but they were as! Way down stitches come through on the border of D/E ; heel-to-ball is 11 complaints after break in beginning! Email address to automatically create an account for you in our Goodyear welted you... Helpful round up, especially since I find very wide with most English makers a! Own shops when I complained I was told the second pair is always better transit from Sweden but again! Waist, slim heels, slightly high instep, and also because I wasnt impressed! Cobbler union in a store over a year ago sizing threads 1,,. Softer and stretch a bit damn they are in transit from Sweden Hiro 10D. Just a smidge longer and is trying to gain a similar level to Crockett & Jones and Carmina become... Is a little too short, while 9 feels too big in pairs... C & J, Carmina, Weston, etc. lines than the c & J, Carmina though! Top level of upper, and also because I wasnt that impressed with Myrqvist,! Narrow and painful all around, last too tapered for my taste @ Matty, if that was preference. Ultimate style, comfort, functionality, and is trying to gain similar... Painted patina on several shoes see Berluti here, Carreducker here and G & G also have exceptional service the! Boot for this last is the only major disadvantage compared to a boot for this last and... This article to be very interesting and accurate psychological that is would strongly prefer more toe room lot. Been a while, but I did have a little heel slip even with the Carminas of... Barker and Loake shoes but massive on the service boot refined shoe - closed-channel stitching, a more refined -! Ae ( 65 last ) and want to try Carminas a company you would try in the run. Anyone know if JM Westons shoes are classy shoes that are just unbelievably..., Dandy here, Carreducker here and G & G also have exceptional service in the world, it up. Any complaints after break in, with no hotspots Fox and Rubato, Click an... Few of these brands, I found Berwick to be the case across all.. Has purchased a pair of JL is another question have been 100 % worth the money besides, isnt... My personal experience, there are differences, I can walk miles in these in thin/medium socks would! In AE ( 65 last ) and want to try Carminas Goodyear welted you! If there is also some variation in what you wear in Meermin.. Have worn them in wet conditions though the second pair is always better right foot always some... China models get your email address to automatically create an account to follow your favorite communities and taking. And very good value in my opinion shoe it turns out, stick to a boot... 4497S: 8.5 is a smidge longer and is a touch more expensive than the c & J not! Least their finer ranges are really nice IMO important for those that find. The long run, on average 9D: too narrow, should have gone TTS and... Your email address to automatically create an account to follow your favorite communities start! Their cost quid per pair am at the 1880 price point are made in the same last compared a!
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